Air Dynamics - Home >> Articles >> Kadet LT-40
Products | Order | Articles | Blimps | Projects | Links | About | New

How to Improve a Sig Kadet LT-40

(click any image for larger views)

I love my Kadet. I've had it for a few years now, it's been in a few crashes, been modified a bunch, flies great. Sig is always great to deal with, and if you're new to the hobby, the two manuals that come with the kit are a fantastic introduction to kit-building and r/c aircraft. A few things however I've found useful and may help you enjoy your Kadet even more:


  • Cosmetics: The stock fuel hatch and windshield are too flat for my taste and hence look ugly. Glue a 3/8" sheet to the windshield and round it smoothly from side to side and on top. Glue another piece to the hatch and sand the rear edge till the bevel (angle) mates with the bottom of the windshield, then attach it in place and round the sides and forward edge. When I took these pictures, I misplaced the hatch. You'll see it soon.


  • RX installation: The stock installation for the receiver requires that you poke into the space under the tank. Access is tough for this area, and it's difficult to make sure that the foam is seated properly to protect the rx. It's also difficult to fuel-proof the area when you first build the kit, and if you have to add lead to the nose, this is also not great. I took one of the scrap die-cut pieces from the back of the fuse, and cut a hole to fit this in the bottom of the fuse. The hole has very round edges and does not affect the strength of the nose area.

    I sandwich the Rx between a top and bottom piece of foam, then secure it with velcro strips attached to the hatch with nylon screws. Run the antenna out the bottom of the hatch and attach to a tail skid with a small rubber band. I was initially concerned about damaging the antenna, but have had no problems.





  • Push-Pull Rudder Controls: The stock installation for the rudder snake leaves it unsupported at the end. On hot summer days this can get floppy and weak. Either support it externally by bolting or gluing it in place. This mod is not yet test flown, I'll provide details / pics afterward. It's also lighter so some lead can be removed from the nose.
  • Elevator Pushrod: The stock installation for the elevator snake is also not adequately supported on it's long journey to the back of the fuse. If you cut a small slot for clearance in the last former, you will be able to use a straight pushrod for this run. Carbon fiber is great, but a medium-hard balsa stick will work too. Take your time selecting the wood and keep the wire ends short. Also not flown yet, pics and info afterward.